While the Bienvenues is not entirely on form today, the Bâtard-Montrachet is singing and seems to be one of the strongest young vintages of this wine that I have tasted in decades. The great, primary bouquet delivers scents of apple, pear, candied lemon peel (à la young Raveneau), just excellent, stony minerality for Bâtard, and a framing of vanillin oak. On the palate the wine is full-bodied, deep and tensile, with a transparency and nervosité that is very rare with young Bâtard-Montrachet in my experience. The wine is rock solid at the core, flawlessly focused and extremely long, with great acids and grip on the very minerally finish. It will be interesting to see if more of the traditional puppy fat of young Bâtard-Montrachet becomes apparent after the bottling, but today this is the best young example of this wine that I have ever tasted chez Leflaive.