(Knights Valley AVA, Sonoma County; 63% Cabernet Sauvignon; 23% Cabernet Franc; 8% Merlot; 6% Petit Verdot – all from volcanic soils on the slopes of Mount St. Helena; 18 months aging in approximately 70% new French oak barrels; 15.9% alcohol; tasted with Robert Fiore, Winemaker since 2020, via Zoom during the CVBG press tour; first produced in 1988).
Small grapes and low yields. The aroma is slightly oxidative at first, but this quickly subsides. A lovely cedar note gathers around the dark, stony, and berry fruit flavors—sloes, blueberries, blackberries, and a hint of black cherry. Graphite. Lilac. Violet. Soft, elegant, fine, subtle, and quite delicate. Fleshy and cool at its core. A turn or two from the white pepper mill. Fresh mountain herbs, even a small sprig of rosemary and heather. Also juicy. Even downright juicy. Becoming more crystalline and graceful with time in the glass. Juicy. Sublime. Multi-layered. Broad and quite generous, but very “floating.” The alcohol is noticeable, but the airy elegance of this wine is exceptional, as is the richness of the midpalate. Licorice and salty minerality accumulate on the finish. Not quite up to the level of the 2021 for me, but still deeply impressive. A wine that develops beautifully in the glass and benefits enormously from aeration.
